BEST CHEF NEW YORK STATE: Ryan Fernandez

Ryan Fernandez, Southern Junction

365 Connecticut Street, Buffalo, NY 14213

At his Texas barbecue-meets-South Indian spot, Southern Junction, chef and pitmaster Ryan Fernandez’s perspective goes beyond combining cuisines. Born in Kerala, India, Fernandez moved to Lubbock, Texas, as a teenager before relocating to Buffalo in his 30s, a path evidenced by his menu: the brisket, potato salad and mac and cheese stay true to their Texas roots, while dishes like his brisket biryani and smoked chicken with coconut curry sauce carry his own flavor instincts, something he calls Tex-ish.

Since opening in February 2020, Fernandez has earned two James Beard Award nominations (2024, 2025) and a national reputation that led to an invitation to cook at the Beard Awards’ walk-around reception in Chicago in June 2026. Texas Monthly ranked Southern Junction No. 6 on its list of Texas-style barbecue outside the Lone Star State. This year, Fernandez has leaned into a high-low aesthetic that prizes culinary excellence without sacrificing approachability or price. A newly opened quick-service area lets Southern Junction meet demand from on-the-go customers.

The restaurant has also rolled out a more ambitious cocktail program, adding complexity to the dining experience. This is part of Fernandez’s plan to focus his efforts on bringing Southern Junction closer to its ideal. Rather than chasing culinary and dining trends that feel unnatural to him, Fernandez is striving to stay true to the humble origins of both Texas barbecue and South Indian hospitality. Approachability is central to Southern Junction’s mission, and Fernandez takes pride in keeping his nationally recognized barbecue affordable for guests. He also works with Buffalo Resilience to provide free meals and battle the ongoing opioid crisis.